On the Road to Mandalay: I want to ride my bicycle

One of Mike’s first tasks when we arrived here was to buy a bike for himself. It didn’t take him long to explore the city. In fact, we- my teaching partner Shawn and I- give him a list of tasks to do most every day when we’re at school. Get some toilet paper, look for a pharmacy, find me an English print newspaper—soon enough, he got to know the city pretty well.

Even though Mandalay is a pretty big city (population 1.2 million) it doesn’t feel huge. It’s mostly laid out on a grid system with the large palace area in the center surrounded by a moat. It's also relatively flat except for a couple of flyovers near the rail station.

We’ve noticed some distinct neighborhoods. We’re in a largely Muslim area- there are two mosques within a block. The other families in our apartment building are Muslim and this sign is over our door-

A few blocks away is a Hindu neighborhood with a beautiful temple and some good Indian restaurants. Across town is a quieter tree-lined neighborhood, clearly more affluent. Down by the river the buildings are older and it’s a little more hectic and crowded.

We live in an apartment in what is considered the downtown of Mandalay. We’re 3 blocks from the western wall of the palace and 3 blocks from the clock tower and the largest market- Zeygo Market. The school is next to the market in the Zeygo Plaza Building.

While it might seem that everything is very close, it is quite a chore to walk in this town. First of all, the sidewalks aren’t always clear for walking. Many times the sidewalk in front of a building will be filled with scooters or the contents of a shop spilled out onto the street. And then there are the legendary “hell holes” I so dread (cracked sidewalks leading down to the open sewer that threaten to break your ankle or suck you down to oblivion.) Walking in this town means a lot of time in the street looking over your shoulder and trying not to get run over. Crossing the street is another lesson in trying to stay alive.

I’m a little embarrassed to say we have a driver take us to school even though it’s only a little over 3 blocks away. At first I thought it was a ridiculous idea. I saw the distance on the map and thought “we can walk.” Mike and I even walked down there on the Sunday before I started school. Then Monday morning came and our faithful driver, Soe Naing, was at the door at 8:30am. I soon realized how nice it is to show up at school sweat free in my clean neatly pressed white lab coat. The school is in the most hectic area of town during the weekdays. Getting there by walking would not be very fun or relaxing.

Mike learned early on that the best way to get around (besides a scooter) is by bike so he spent the first few weeks trying to convince me to get on a bike. I had been a little intimidated by the traffic so I was reluctant. I finally agreed to try on a Sunday, figuring the traffic would be lightest. I went down the street and rented a bike from Mr. Jerry and his wife, Miss YiYi.

We ventured out towards Mandalay Hill, which is on the north side of the palace. It ends up that Mike is right: riding a bike is the best way to get around. The traffic consists mostly of trucks, cars, buses, (which are small trucks crammed with people) scooters and fellow bikers. The roads on the moat are the easiest because it’s a divided road and it’s wide enough for a designated bike/scooter lane. Now this definitely comes with some caveats. First, it’s very likely that some vehicle will be traveling the wrong way down the road. Next, there are many vehicles parked in the bike lane, so going around them can be a little risky if they pull out or the door suddenly opens. Finally, there is always the chance that you could be spit on with a big mouthful of Betel juice. And I mean big.

My method of not getting run over and or spit on is to talk the whole time I’m riding. I head down the road saying “Hello, Mingalaba, do you see me, I’m right here.” People will glance out the window and usually take a wide berth around me. I think part of it is fear of running over the blond lady. The people here are very kind and considerate, especially to tourists, and I’m guessing it would be in bad form to run one over.

I got a little tired of renting crappy bikes from our neighbors so Mike struck a deal with a guy down the road who sells and rents bikes. In exchange for me riding one of his bikes for the last month or so, Mike will leave his beloved Hero bike with him. Solves the problem of how Mike will get rid of his bike. I also got to choose a nice bike and insisted on a bell to add to my strategies for not getting run over.

I’m learning all of the little intricacies of riding a bike here. For instance, when making a left turn you don’t ride to the middle of the intersection then take a left. Instead you cut the corner to the left before the intersection. Everybody does this, including cars and trucks. It requires a lot of vigilance about what other drivers are doing but it seems to work well. Also- if there is no sign or signal at an intersection you just slow down and weave your way through the traffic coming from each side- it’s always the best when you have a car next to you. The most important thing is to not hesitate. Never. One must act with conviction!

I was very surprised to find that there are a number of traffic signals in this town, and we do try to make our major turns at those signals. Now, mind you, on the streets between those signals it’s a free for all. In spite of the lack of rules in most intersections, when there is a traffic signal people seem to wait for the light to turn green to go.

This is my favorite part about riding here: Waiting at the signal. The anticipation of the light turning. Everybody checking each other out a little. There is more than a little staring- it’s not super common to see a blondie on a bike. I’ll make eye contact, nod and smile- say Mingalaba and next thing I know everyone is grinning.

So, I’ll say it again- Mike was right. Riding a bike is the best way to get around. It has expanded my horizons a lot in this town. We’ve been to neighborhoods I never would have gotten to otherwise and it’s a nice speed for checking things out. People also seem pretty delighted to see us out there. Many times we’ll be riding a long and someone will bike or scooter up to have a chat.

Here’s a few pics from the ‘hood-

We live on 83 between 24 and 25. This is how all directions are given.

Our apartment building. We're on the 2nd floor on the left. The business on the lower right is a full service medical clinic.

No 155. That's my beautiful bike. The basket hanging in the doorway on the left is where they leave the milk in the morning (for our upstairs neighbors.)

A really cool vacant building next door. A couple of vintage jeeps out front that don't run. This is also where Mike's favorite old neighborhood dude hangs out.